The bus trip took us across the highland plateau, picking up Mad Pratincole at one of the rivers en route, to the famous Analamazaotra (Perinet) Reserve arriving at our Lodge, the Feon’ny ala in time for an excellent lunchtime birding session which included Crested Drongo, Mad Bulbul, Mad Blue Pigeon, Mad Kingfisher, Red-tailed and White-headed Vangas, Nelicourvi Weaver, Souimanga Sunbird & Lesser Vasa Parrot. From the lodge we could hear the wonderful haunting calls of the Famous Indri. That afternoon we had a fantastic walk through the forest when we had our first sightings of the Indri and the Common Brown Lemur. An amazing sighting was that of the Giraffe Weevil (Trachelophorus giraffa), endemic to Madagascar and apparently, the extended neck is an adaptation that assists in nest building and fighting.

Birds seen that afternoon included Mad Buzzard, Mad Magpie-robin, Mad Turtle-dove, Green Jery, Common Jery, Rand’s Warbler, Blue Coua, Spectacled Tetraka, Rainforest (Malagasy) Scops Owl, Common Newtonia, Blue Vanga, Mad Spinetail, Mad Coucal, Mad Green Sunbird and the very special Collared Nightgar who’s call is unknown, very unusual for a nightjar!

That evening we did the first of a few night walks that we enjoyed during our stay in this area. We did these walks either in the forest or from the Lodge along the road which tracked the forest edge. During these walks we picked up a few of the nocturnal Lemurs as well great sightings of various chameleons, frogs and even the occasional spider and small snake (apparently, there are no venomous snakes in Madagascar). We also heard the Rainforest Scops Owl and were very lucky one evening to see the elusive Mad Long-eared Owl.

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So last weekend, Cassia and I decided to rectify this and pay a visit both to the Bontebok NP and Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve which is a patch of South West Cape indigenous forest situated in the Langeberg about 35 kms north-east of Swellendam. We left Cape Town on Saturday morning and, unfortunately, only arrived in the Bontebok NP at midday during a very hot day, after stopping off for a breakfast omelette at the Rooiberg Wine Estate. On the way into the Park and on the road down to the river and Lang Elsie’s kraal rest camp, we had good sightings of Grey Rhebok and Bontebok.

Although very hot, we were able to pick up a few birds including good sightings of Cloud Cisticola.

On reaching the river, we decided to get some shade in the lunchtime heat, so we parked the vehicle and took a walk along one of the riverside trails through the riverine bush towards the viewing platform. We saw some of the usuals associated with riverine habitat but particularly enjoyed sightings of Brimstone Canary, Swee Waxbill and Olive Woodpecker amongst others.

We then took the Western road towards the picnic area to get some height for a photo of  Lang Elsie’s Kraal rest camp before taking the eastern loop out, where we had good sightings of Bontebok again as well as picking up Agulhas long-billed Lark and Cape (Agulhas) Clapper Lark.

With the temperature sitting in the mid to late 30s, we then headed back to Swellendam and our B&B for the weekend – Cypress Cottage in the main street. Cypress cottage must have the coldest swimming pool water in Swellendam but in the excessive heat that we had over the weekend, it was a welcome way to cool off – after the initial heart stopping moments! That evening we stopped in at the Swellendam Municipal Cottages where a group of Cape Bird Club members were staying and had a sundowner with them before heading down to the “Full Stop” Pub in main street for a light dinner, a couple of beers and the pleasure of watching the Stormers take out the Bulls at Loftus!

On Sunday morning, we took a drive up the valley to Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve. The Reserve is situated in the Langeberg and consists of about 250ha of indigenous forest and some mountain fynbos. It lies in the transitional zone between the winter and all year round rainfall regions and contains most of the typical forest tree species but also some exotic tree species planted at the turn of the last century, particularly the impressive Californian redwoods. It also contains some of the most westerly Bushbuck to be seen in South Africa (and we saw one). Just under 200 bird species have been recorded here and we were out to target some of the forest specials.

The forest lies in a steep valley, so it’s all steep down and then steep up. As we only started on the down at about 10 ish on Sunday morning, it was already starting to get hot. We set off down the Redwoods road into the forest and noted that things were very quiet with very few birds calling and so we were hoping to bump into a feeding-party. On the way down to the stream at the bottom of the valley, we saw some of the forest usuals including Forest Canary, Southern Boubou, Cape White-eyes, Cape Batis, Olive Woodpecker etc. Unfortunately, with the dark and dappled light in the forest and the distance of some of the birds, most of the images are of poor quality.

After crossing the stream, we started the slog up on the other side of the valley towards the bird hide. We picked up 2 good birds on the way to the hide, Grey Cuckooshrike and Lesser Honeyguide. Unfortunately, both were some distance away and only very poor images were obtained.

After collecting those two, we stumbled on the majestic but exotic Californian Redwoods. After a couple of photos there and amongst the ferns at the stream source, we moved on up with a flock of Red-winged Starlings clattering in the canopy above (Raptor somewhere overhead?) and Cape Batises buzzing around in the mid-stratum. We emerged puffing from the forest and took a sweaty climb up to the first part of the mountain fynbos in the midday heat (mid 30s) to seek out Victorin’s Warbler. We located 2 pairs calling within 50 metres of emerging from the forest in dense mountain fynbos. They were calling from so close, that we probably could have reached out and touched them, but for the life of us, we could not see them!

Eventually, we gave up and trekked back to the car park and camp site at the entrance. after rehydrating, we took a leisurely drive back to Swellendam ( the “Full Stop” was closed so a cleansing draught was out), had a glass of wine in the coldest pool in Swellendam and closed the day out with a glorious evening up the road at an outdoor restaurant that served a great pasta.  What a great long weekend!

The next morning, we woke up to what we had most dreaded on this coastline – fog and limited visibility. The fog stayed with us the entire day but we still managed to pick up a few birds – Wilson’s and European Storm-Petrels, as well as a couple of Albatrosses – Atlantic Yellow-nosed and Black-browed.

Even though the weather wasn’t on our side, we were treated to an amazing spectacle, albeit some distance from the ship, of hundreds of Dusky dolphins cavorting and leaping, churning up the rather grey and fog shrouded sea.  Later I managed to find a pair closer to the boat

Although the fog had been with us all day, we ended up having a pleasant enough sunset, a good dinner and a very acceptable guitarist (with a great feel for Carlos Santana) in the Blue Ribbon Bar. That venue turned out to be my regular haunt during the late evenings.

We sailed into Walvis Bay early the next morning in overcast cool weather. On the way in, we had great views of Pomarine and Long-tailed Jaegers as well as a variety of terns. As Ian Sinclair was not allowed to take out day excursions, Cassia had pre-arranged for Naude Dreyer (www.sandwich-harbour.com) to take us out for the day to hunt a few local specials. Unknown to us, Heather Howell had also booked with him for some of the other Cape Bird Club members. Other birders on the boat also wanted to join in for the day trip. Naude was fantastic! He managed to rustle up additional Landrovers and drivers and we were soon on our way, via some quick birding in the Bay to his Dune Lark spot amongst the coastal vegetated hummock dunes. Dune Lark – I enjoy LBJs and I was really looking forward to this “lifer” for me. An endemic with a pretty small range. It didn’t take Naude too long to put us on to them and we ended up seeing 5 or 6 of them calling and displaying. We also came across one of the Parabuthus species of Scorpions – bad news these guys!

After a drinks break on the top of a high dune  (Namibian beers are so good), we launched off the dune in the Landrovers straight down the 34 degree (I believe) slope and surfed down the dune with white knuckles before heading off to the salt works. We saw the usual stuff driving through the salt works but unfortunately no sign of the targeted Eurasian Oystercatcher. It was also interesting to see a couple Black-backed Jackals slinking around the salt pans.

The search for the Oystercatcher was followed by a drive along the expanding sandbank towards Pelican Point where we were treated to a very welcome surprise picnic finger lunch of champagne, oysters, calamari and other delicacies. It was then time to head back to the ship before she sailed but we did manage a quick stop in the salt pans where we were lucky enough to pick up 2 Red-necked Phalaropes.

We sailed from Walvis more or less on time. A pair of late returners did cause the Captain a little angst.It was windy but sunny and we managed a few birds on the cruise out including, amongst others,  Pomarine Jaeger.  Unfortunately after an enjoyable evening and good guitar in the Blue Ribbon, we awoke to another bleak overcast and windy morning with occasional banks of fog. That dull and windy morning we did, however manage a few sightings of Leach’s Storm-Petrel and I managed to get a few  very poor and distant images of Parasitic Jaeger, Long-tailed Jaeger and Red Phalaropes taking off from the sea. Later on in the afternoon, the clouds and occasional light fog started to clear and we had some good sightings of Black-browed and Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatrosses and then in bright sunshine, White-chinned and Great-winged Petrels, amongst others.

The next morning turned out to be the best of the cruise. The weather was fantastic, the sea glassy and we cruised into Table Bay with spectacular views of Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles suspended on a light mist and an azure blue sea. On the way into the Bay we also had good sightings of a number of birds including Sabine’s Gulls and a Giant-Petrel, ? Northern.

All in all, an excellent trip. It was great to catch up with Ily and Rowan Rasmussen again after so many years. Many thanks to Ian Sinclair for the help as well as the company in the liquid refreshment areas and the friends that we made on the cruise including  Errard Sullivan, Naas Du Preez and all the others. We’ll do it again.

Pretoriuskop Camp has the oldest (1954) and loveliest swimming pool in Kruger with natural granite rock sliding into tepid water surrounded by a variety of shady iconic lowveld trees. Cassia and I had a daily swim there in the afternoons, even completing a few lengths of rusty breaststroke and in Cassia’s case crawl and butterfly. It was great to wander around the Camp photographing birds, trees & plants.

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On Saturday morning after breakfast, Margie and Rob and Cassia and I took a walk back up the hill on the access road to get some exercise, take the views, do some botany and generally build up some credits for some selected white wine tasting before lunch.

By Saturday evening, the remainder of the party had arrived and after a lovely moonrise, we had an enjoyable chilli con carne, courtesy of Jenny, accompanied by a great selection of red wines and a warm fire. Early on Sunday morning we were treated to a spectacular view of the coastline emerging under a wintery dawn with the moon still in evidence.

Sunday morning also produced one of the highlights of the trip – Common Bottlenose Dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) surfing right in front of Lekkerwater!

Also visible for most of the weekend around Lekkerwater were Southern Right Whales (Eubalaena australis) and the sort of birds that you would commonly expect to see around the house in this area.

Later on Sunday morning, Margie and Rob and Cassia and I, once again, ventured off up behind Lekkerwater to see what we could find on the botanical front:

Another highlight of the weekend was Kempo’s birthday. As a Guinea Fowl Old Boy his gift wine came in the appropriate wrapping.

Unfortunately, Cassia and I had to leave on Monday morning while the others were able to stay on for a Margie’s famous paella, as they were all only leaving on Tuesday. On the way back to Cape Town we picked up one “lifer” – Agulhas Long-billed Lark as well as great sightings of Blue Cranes, Denham’s Bustard and surprisingly, a Martial Eagle in the farmlands.

Our 1st stop-over for the night was, as it often is, at the Karoo NP, one of the highlights being a pair of very active Cape rock elephant shrews (Elephantulus edwardii)

We also had an over-night stop-over at the “Trout Lodge” near Dullstroom where we had a crack in the main dam for about an hour late afternoon without success unlike our previous visit in 2005 when we had a great session late afternoon with dries during a mayfly hatch.

“Highland Run” on the Spekboom River in the Mount Anderson Catchment Reserve is the creation of Doug Starling and consists of 2 well appointed lodges, well separated from each other, on about 4-5 kms of river with runs and pools crafted by low stacked rock weirs. There are good sized Rainbows and Browns to be taken on dry flies and nymphs and always the chance of a trophy fish. Conditions were excellent and we had some wonderful sessions producing a number of good fish.

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After we’d settled into the rooms we found a table-tennis table in the farm barn and so we launched into the Prior tradition of the “All Africa table tennis championship” with fortunes changing as we went through various singles contests and different doubles combinations, many od them very closely contested matches.

After watching the Super 14 game in the bar (where I won the score pool) we had a very pleasant early evening pre-dinner drink on the patio in front of our rooms with a view onto the mountains.

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We sailed out of Durban late in the afternoon aboard the MSC Sinfonia with great views of the new Soccer World Cup stadium bound for Mauritius. The cabin was small but comfortable with a good picture window. It didn’t take me long to realize that a sea cruise is a great way to travel and visit places without ever having to move out of your room, catch shuttles and sit in airports etc.
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